PART 2: VISITING SOMALIA

Arrival

The journey was LONG and exhausting. Annoyingly, our flight didn't go straight to Somalia from Dubai where we stayed for a night as transit. I felt like I was on a bus. The plane first stopped by Hargeisa, where people got off and others got on. Then it went across the border to Djibouti, where again, people got off and others got on. THEN we finally landed in Mogadishu, where my family is from.

I felt this feeling of wonder when the plane first flew over Hargeisa. From above, I saw red sand and those "African" trees you always see in National Geographic. I couldn't believe I was actually here!

Anyways! Back to landing in Mogadishu. With the hot sun on my face, I couldn't help but look around in wonder as I stepped out of the plane and onto the stairs waiting for the passengers. There were palm trees around, and to my left, I could see the Indian Ocean.

Inside the airport was chaos. Past security where the bags are (there wasn't the baggage conveyor belt thingy, Everyone's bags are on the floor), were many airport employees who wanted to carry passengers' bags in exchange for some money. These people were crazy! Insistent and forceful, they would try to grab your bag away from you. "Your bag is too heavy for you. I'll carry it," they'd demand. Luckily, we already knew this before we left.

I can't even count how many of these men I told off and wrestled my luggage back from. I felt so harassed. Worse, my luggage was completely destroyed. The wheels were broken and the handle was hanging off. Plus, the small outside pocket had been opened. These airport men had probably tried to open it since the main zipper was locked. I was really pissed off.

Outside, my uncle, cousins, and maternal grandmother were waiting for us. It was lovely meeting them for the first time! Especially meeting my grandmother. My siblings and I grew up hearing so many stories about her. She was tough and no one dared talk back to her. My grandmother couldn't let go of us. She kept kissing our cheeks and couldn't speak. She got very emotional. She couldn't let go of our mother either. My mother was her eldest daughter and her favourite child (which she was totally open about). Ayeyo had sent my mother away to Italy to work and send money back to the family when she was only 19. She had sacrificed much. In over 20 years, my mother had visited Somalia only once. This trip was her second. My grandmother wanted my mother to be by her side at all times. It was a strange feeling to see my mom with HER mom.

Driving further away from the airport is when I noticed the effects of the civil war. There was no pavement; just sand and there were bricks and rocks everywhere. Not to mention so much garbage. The buildings were riddled with bullet holes and many buildings were destroyed. No one had bothered to fix them.

When we got to one of my maternal uncle's house where we were staying, we got to meet more aunts, uncles, and cousins. There were so many! I also got to meet my maternal grandfather who lived with my uncle. The complete opposite of my grandmother, he was so quiet and soft-spoken. I also got to hang out with my cousin who I grew up with in Canada. She got to Somalia before we did.

After dinner, we went to go see my paternal grandmother and uncle. Again, it was lovely to meet my grandmother for the first time. She was thrilled to meet us especially my kid brother who was her favourite. She kept smiling and looking at us.

There was a lot to take in. Life is so different. There's no stove. Since electricity costs money, people cook in this huge wooden bowl thingy using charcoal and fire. It's like camping. People in Somalia use this in the kitchen where there isn't proper ventilation for the smoke. My warnings about the dangers of smoke inhalation only fell on deaf ears. Somalis are extremely stubborn. So whenever I am doing the cooking, I take that wooden bowl outside.

And the flies! Oh my God. They're everywhere. Especially in the houses. I'm reminded of all those starving African children you see on T.V. You know how there's always flies on them? It's because the flies here want to be on your skin. They come directly towards you. I spend most of my time swatting them away from me. And away from my food. People here don't really care about the flies. And flies touching their food isn't a big deal for them.

Another difference is that running water and clean water isn't always available. Everyone has this huge barrel where they save tap water for whenever running water gets cut off. I had to make wudu (ablution), shower, and wash the dishes using a bucket of water. It was an interesting experience. The people here drink the tap water which isn't clean. The water is mixed with water from the ocean. So it's salty and not safe to drink. You can't explain sanitary and bacteria and all that to these people. Whenever I'd talk about that, they'd say things like "This is the way we live" or "That's made-up stuff from the West".

Till the next post!